By Air

Kochi has a bright new airport that the local businessmen helped build. Newly functional, it gets international and domestic traffic, and is 26 km from town. The old airport is situated on Willingdon Island; it is about 5 km from both Kochi and Ernakulam and receives traffic from all major cities in India. There are auto-rickshaws and taxis to ferry you into town.

By Rail

Ernakulam Junction is the main railway station in Kochi, and a major stop on the southwestern rail route. Trains connect Kochi to major cities like Bangalore, Mangalore, Chennai, Mumbai, Delhi, Thiruvananthapuram and to smaller towns within Kerala.

By Road

Both state-run and sleeker, faster private buses connect Kochi with the rest of the region. Maximum services are to Alappuzha and Kollam on the backwater circuit, but there are a substantial number of services to other places in Kerala and around. There are also many car-rentals that will be glad to hire out a driver and car to you.

Getting Around

Initially, getting your bearings may be a problem because of the confusion over what is Kochi and what Ernakulam but once you’re actually in Kochi things will sort themselves out. Ernakulam is on the mainland and is really the heart of the city. The sub-districts of Fort Kochi, Mattancherry and Vypeen lie on a narrow strip of land that juts out into the Arabian Sea. Lagoons punctuate the landscape here. The islands of Willingdon, Bolgatty and Gundu lie in the harbour. Everything put together makes Kochi, erstwhile Cochin.

Not for nothing is Kochi called the Venice of India. It’s usually easiest to get around on ferries, and it helps that this is the cheapest and most fun option. Otherwise, bridges link all these areas. For main town Ernakulum you could rent a chauffeured car. Plenty of auto-rickshaws run on the roads as do black and yellow cabs. You can rent a bicycle for the quieter districts of Fort Kochi and Mattancherry.

Tourist Offices

The KTDC – Kerala Tourism Development Corporation – office on Shanmugham Road is open all days of the week from 8 am to 7 pm. The Tourist Police are helpful guides to the city. The Government of India tourist assistance office is on Willingdon Island. It’s open everyday from 9 am to 7 pm. You’ll find all of these have maps, brochures and are willing to help you with tours.

When to Go

Since Kochi and Ernakulam are situated on the coast there are no dramatic seasonal changes. It’s hot most times and the humidity is bearable only because of the convection current. But when the monsoons lash the coast June onwards Kochi undergoes a transformation. Temperatures drop and it becomes a cool, lush, leafy paradise. The Nehru Cup snake boat race at Alappuzha is on the second Sunday in August.

Where do I Stay?

All the sub-districts of Ernakulam have wonderful accommodation options. Willingdon Island where the airport is, has mid-rung and top-end hotels. Bolgatty Island has one luxury hotel. Fort Kochi and Ernakulam have plenty of places that span the range from shared bathroom budget joints to posh 5-star affairs with top-of-the-line service. While Fort Kochi is quieter, Ernakulam is busy, bustling and bristling with energy.

What to bring

Bring your swimsuit only if your host has a private beach. Otherwise not too brief a pair of shorts will have to do as beachwear. Light cottons, open toed sandals, sun protection, and rain gear should make up the rest of your luggage.

Things to Do

Most commercial activity and tourist infrastructure is in the mainland hub of Ernakulam. All areas taken into consideration, there are a variety of places and cuisine to chose from. From 5-star gourmet restaurants that serve the most delectable food to stalls that sell delicious street snacks, there’s no dearth of places to choose from.

There’s little by way of nightlife. The token disco and some restaurants that have live performances will have to satisfy you. Slightly more sophisticated entertainment here includes classes in dancing, music, yoga at the Cochin Cultural Centre, and good ayurvedic massages at the Ayurvedic hospital. One of the movie halls plays Hollywood blockbusters.

But what you can’t leave out of your itinerary is a Kathakali performance. There are many venues in the city where shows are regularly held, usually preceded by a demonstration of makeup application and a brief synopsis of the tale that is to be enacted.

Shopping

Among the most interesting purchases in Kochi is art and antiques. Local artists display and sell their work at the ambient art galleries that dot the city and a lot of the work is very exciting. Handicraft and antiques are available at emporiums and in the Jewish Quarter.